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Spirits: Notes, Threads, Octaves.

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The art of perfume creation can be compared to music - just as a melody is made up of notes, a fragrance is created from the many layers that develop over time. Perfumers create their masterpieces using an aromatic pyramid that consists of top, middle and base notes. Each level of the pyramid plays its own unique role in the composition, and it is their harmonious combination that creates that unique fragrance that stays in the memory for years to come.

1. Structure of the aromatic pyramid

The basic structure of the perfume is an aromatic pyramid, which is divided into three levels: top, middle and base notes. These levels unfold gradually, creating a unique composition.

Top notes

Top notes are those fragrances that are felt immediately after the perfume is applied. They form the first impression of the fragrance and usually consist of lighter and more volatile components such as citrus or floral scents.

  • How to choose a perfume with bright top notes: if you want a perfume to create an instant vivid impression, choose compositions with citrus or fresh floral top notes.
  • Top notes that set the tone of the fragrance: it is the top notes that set the mood of the fragrance, forming the first emotion upon contact with the perfume.

Middle notes (heart notes)

The middle notes, or heart notes, are revealed a little later and form the basis of the fragrance. They are more persistent and have a deeper impact on the perception of the fragrance. The heart notes often include floral, fruity and spicy aromas.

  • Middle notes are the heart of the fragrance: they are the main component that determines the overall orientation of the fragrance and its main sound.
  • The combination of notes in the fragrance: the middle notes connect the top and base notes, creating a smooth transition in the composition.

Base notes

Base notes are the final and longest-lasting element in a perfume composition. They can be felt even hours after the perfume has been applied. Base notes give the fragrance persistence and depth using woody, amber and musky accords.

  • The role of base notes in the longevity of a fragrance: base notes provide the long-lasting perception of the fragrance and create the trail that remains after the top and middle notes evaporate.
  • Perfumes with woody and musky base notes: such fragrances are usually suitable for evenings and colder seasons, creating a warmer and more intense atmosphere.

2. Harmony of notes in composition

Creating perfume is a complex art, where it is important not only to choose the right ingredients, but also to ensure their harmonious interaction. The combination of notes in a fragrance should be perfectly balanced, so that each of them opens at the right moment and complements the others.

How notes are combined in perfumery

When a perfumer creates a fragrance, he or she thinks about how the different levels of the aromatic pyramid will interact with each other. For example, light and fresh top notes can combine with warm and deep base notes to create a complex composition.

  • Harmony between notes in the aroma pyramid: it is important that the fragrances harmonize and the transitions between notes are smooth and natural.
  • The secrets of combining notes in perfumery: the right balance of components allows the fragrance to open on the skin gradually, creating a multifaceted and memorable image.

The influence of each level of the pyramid on flavor

Each level of the pyramid plays its own role in the perception of the fragrance. The top notes form the first impression, the middle notes reinforce the main idea of the fragrance, and the base notes are responsible for its persistence and trail.

  • Perception of the fragrance through the notes: the right combination of notes allows the fragrance to unfold consistently, creating a multi-layered effect.

3. octaves of flavors: how notes create a melody

Like a musical composition, perfumes have their own "octaves" where each note plays a specific role in creating the full melody of the fragrance. The octaves of a perfume are the subtle nuances that make each fragrance unique and inimitable.

Top notes as a first impression

The first impression of a perfume is created precisely due to the top notes, which usually sound bright and fresh. These notes evaporate quickly, but remain in the memory as the first sensation of the fragrance.

  • How top notes create a first impression: citrus or fresh herbal aromas instantly catch the eye and set the tone for the entire perfume.
  • Perfumes with citrus top notes: such fragrances are often chosen for daytime use, as they are refreshing and uplifting.

Middle notes as the heart of the fragrance

The middle notes are revealed a few minutes after applying the perfume and remain on the skin for the longest time. These notes are the "heart" of the fragrance, and their choice determines the overall orientation of the composition.

  • Middle notes are the basis of harmony: they should complement both top and base notes, creating a whole composition.

Base notes as a final chord

Base notes are the final chord that completes the composition and ensures its persistence. It is the base notes that leave the trail of the fragrance, which can be felt even after several hours.

  • Base notes are the foundation of a fragrance's staying power: woody, amber or musk aromas are often used to create a long-lasting scent that accompanies the wearer throughout the day.

Creating perfume is a real art, where each note plays its role in creating a whole and harmonious composition. Top notes create a first impression, middle notes reveal the "heart" of the fragrance, while the base notes provide persistence and trail. The harmonious combination of these levels creates unique fragrances that are memorable and continue to accompany the wearer throughout the day.

The choice of perfume, especially if as a gift, should be based on knowledge of the notes, threads and octaves of perfume. Perfume opens gradually. At the time of purchase, you experience the aroma of only the topmost note, which quickly disappears. It takes time for the very last note to reveal itself in a perfume. If you are not sure of your knowledge of fragrances, it may be better to give scarlet roses in a basket, buy a bouquet of 51 pieces of roses. Pleasure will be received by both - the one who gives and the one who accepts the gift.

The term "common thread" describes the ability of spirits to flow from one phase or "note" to another in such a way that these transitions are felt harmoniously and the phases do not dissonate with each other.
Finally, the term "octave" refers to the degree to which an individual scent or ingredient, manifests itself during the drying process of a perfume.

Top notes

Top notes (notes de tete in French) are the lightest and most quickly evaporating parts of a perfume composition. They create the first impression of the perfume aroma. They disappear in a few minutes. But we must not forget that the odors of the top notes have time to mix with the middle notes as this phase manifests itself in the composition. The term "chord" is appropriate here.
"Accord" is a harmonious combination of different notes. Since the floral fragrance family is the most numerous group of ingredients, many more components are used to create the top notes of a perfume than the middle or base notes.

Floral odors

Geraniums, chamomile, gardenia, velveteen.

Fruity odors

Peach, pear, plum, apricot, raspberry, melon, black currant buds

Green smells

Galbanum, hyacinth, lavender, rosemary, mint, basil, sage
Spice odors (some of which show up as top notes)
Cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, coriander, pepper.

Citrus odors

Lemon, bergamot, petitgrain, lime, pineapple, neroli, mandarin/tangerine.

Middle notes

The middle notes (notes de Coeur in French) define the character of the perfume. It is by the middle notes that perfumes are categorized (floral, citrus, etc.). In addition, they can affect the base notes of the composition. It is not without reason that middle notes are called "heart notes".
It takes about ten minutes for the middle notes to appear. They can be felt on the skin for several hours, harmonizing with the supporting base notes of the composition.
Middle notes tend to be floral scents.
These include: carnation, cyclamen, yellow daffodil, frangipane, freesia, geranium, heliotrope, honey, honeysuckle, iris, jasmine, jonquilla, lilac, lily of the valley, magnolia, mimosa, narcissus, orange blossom, orchid, peony, rose, sweet pea, tuberose, violet, lily of the valley, white lily, ylang-ylang.

Base notes

The base notes (notes de fond in French) are felt later than the top and middle notes, giving the perfume depth. The base notes are often referred to as fixatives, as they lengthen the evaporation time of the perfume or "drying time" and lengthen the life of the fragrance on the skin.
These include gray ambergris, balsams, benzoic resin, beaver jet, cedarwood, cibetin, coumarin, frankincense, labdanum, musk, myrrh, oak moss, patchouli, resin, chefras, styrax, tonka bean, vanilla, vanillin, vetiver. Good astringents would be nice, too.

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