Home The magic of flavors The art of perfume formulation: secrets of creating unique fragrances

The art of perfume formulation: secrets of creating unique fragrances

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Creating perfume is a true art that requires in-depth knowledge of ingredients, techniques and fragrance combinations. The perfume creation process involves the use of natural and synthetic ingredients, fine-tuning the combination of top, middle and base notes, and fragrance extraction techniques. In this article, we will look at how perfumes are created, what ingredients are used, and how perfumers achieve unique compositions.

1. Components used in the creation of perfume

Each fragrance is unique due to the carefully selected ingredients that make up its base. These components are divided into natural and synthetic ingredients, as well as essential oils.

Natural and synthetic ingredients

Both natural ingredients, such as flowers, herbs, fruits and wood, and synthetic ingredients created in laboratories are used in the production of perfumes. Natural ingredients such as jasmine, rose and vanilla are valued for their unique fragrances, but synthetic counterparts allow for more long-lasting and complex compositions.

  • The best natural ingredients for perfumes: essential oils of flowers, fruits and woods help create warm and rich scents.
  • Synthetic components: allow you to expand the palette of flavors, unavailable in nature, and increase the persistence of perfume.

The importance of base notes

Base notes are those fragrances that remain on the skin the longest and determine the persistence of the perfume. They are often woody, musky or amber fragrances that form the basis of the whole composition.

  • How to combine base notes correctly: perfumers pay special attention to the selection of base notes, as they serve as the "foundation" of the fragrance.

Essential oils in perfumery

Essential oils play a key role in the creation of perfumes. They provide a rich and natural fragrance, as well as allowing you to create deep and complex compositions.

  • Combining essential oils to create unique fragrances: using oils of citrus, flowers and spices allows you to create a bright and long-lasting perfume.

2. flavor creation technology

Creating perfume is a process that requires precision and knowledge of the methods of extracting and blending ingredients. Complex fragrances require not only high quality ingredients, but also the right techniques.

Flavor extraction methods

In order to obtain aromatic components, various extraction methods such as distillation, enfleurage and solvent extraction are used. These methods allow the extraction of pure essential oils from plants and other natural ingredients.

  • Extraction of essential oils for perfumery: the right extraction method helps to preserve the purity of the fragrance and make it more long-lasting.
  • Extraction of natural fragrances for perfume creation: especially important when working with flowers and woody species.

Component mixing process

Creating a perfume requires not only the use of quality ingredients, but also the precise mixing of ingredients in the right proportions. Perfumers create a fragrance by gradually adding ingredients, starting with base notes, then middle notes and ending with top notes.

  • How to mix perfume notes correctly: each note is added gradually to achieve a harmonious and balanced fragrance.

Technologies of storage and aging of spirits

Once a perfume is created, it needs to be properly stored and aged. Some fragrances get better with time, like a fine wine. This allows the components to open up and create harmony between the top, middle and base notes.

  • Aging the perfume to improve the aroma: the aging process allows the fragrance to "calm down" and become more balanced.

3- The art of flavor combination

The secret to a successful perfume lies in the right combination of fragrances. It is important to consider how the fragrances interact with each other and how they reveal themselves on the skin.

Harmony of top, middle and base notes

Each fragrance consists of top, middle and base notes, which are revealed sequentially. The top notes are felt first, the middle notes are the core of the fragrance, and the base notes create a persistent trail.

  • How to properly combine top, middle and base notes: perfumers must consider the balance and harmony between the different levels of fragrance to create a lasting and attractive perfume.

Combination of fragrances for different times of the day

Some fragrances are better suited for daytime, while others are better suited for evening outings. For example, citrus and light floral notes are popular for daytime use, while deeper and warmer fragrances such as musk and woods are suitable for evening.

  • Fragrances for day and night: the right choice of fragrance helps to emphasize individuality and create the right mood.

The art of creating unique flavors

Unique fragrances are created through a bold combination of unexpected ingredients. Perfumers experiment with rare components and create compositions that can surprise and be remembered for a long time.

  • How to create a unique perfume: playing with notes and ingredients allows you to create a fragrance that is memorable and different from the rest.

The art of perfume formulation is a complex and fascinating process that requires a deep understanding of the components, techniques and subtleties of fragrance combination. Creating a harmonious and lasting fragrance is possible only with the right choice of ingredients, precise mixing and aging of perfumes. Natural and synthetic ingredients play an important role, as well as the art of combining top, middle and base notes to create a unique and inimitable fragrance.

The history of classification for perfumers

In the nineteenth century, the French perfumer Septimus Piesse developed a classification system for perfumers that correlated with the musical scale. He described perfume as a musical theme in which each fragrance contributes to the overall range of the melody. In fact, Piesse compared the octaves of odors to a piece of music. In Piesse's classification system, still in use today, each scent corresponds to a different musical note. If the perfume is composed correctly, the final melody of the scent, from the moment the perfume is applied until it completely disappears from the skin, will contain only the correct notes.

In 1923, W. A. Poucher added to Pieces' published work a method of classification based on the rate of evaporation of the odorous components of perfume. By dividing the scale into divisions from 1 to 100,

Pocher correlated the top notes of odors with the numbers 1 to 15 because they evaporate the fastest.
For example, tangerine corresponds to the number 2, coriander - 3, nutmeg - 11.

The middle notes have numbers from 16 to 69. For example, marjoram is number 18, clove buds are number 22, and jonquils and ylang-ylang absolutes are number 24. Rose, tuberose and jasmine absolutes were assigned the number 43.

Numbers from 70 to 100 correspond to the base notes of perfumes that stay on the skin the longest. This includes 90 for galbanum and opopanax, 94 for angelica, and 100 for many expensive fixatives.

Those assigned the highest values on this scale evaporate more slowly. These include the aromas of frankincense, benzoin resin, patchouli, chefras, oak moss, vetiver and tonka bean. Pocher's classification system was refined in 1991 and is still used by perfumers as a guideline when creating perfume compositions.

Historically, when starting to create a new perfume composition, perfumers, called "noses" in industry slang, begin working with a structure called an "organ". The organ consists of a series of curved, stepped shelves similar in shape to a church organ. On the shelves are arranged phyto essences according to categories accepted in perfumery, such as citrus or spices. The perfumer should also have a large number of special basic compositions that contain already prepared chords of synthetic or natural essences.

Very few perfumers today work on the organ. Instead, they create in the laboratory. The modern perfumer, still referred to as the "nose", begins the creation of a perfume by defining a product specification developed according to the customer's wishes. This specification takes into account the concept of the scent desired by the customer, price parameters, style ideas, packaging, and the approximate audience for which the final product is intended. The most long-lasting perfume they last a long time.

Given the fierce competition in the world of perfumery, all these components, namely the actual fragrance, packaging and name play an equally important role in the commercial success of the product.

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