Cosmetic detective

If you see cosmetics as a panacea, if you believe in the magic of cosmetics, if you have no doubt that only with the help of cosmetics your face will one day turn into exactly the same, soft, fresh, beautiful as on the covers of glossy magazines, you should not read this section. Because you will learn that cosmetics cannot live up to your expectations. If you want clean, smooth skin, work hard, gather information about your skin, and build a care regimen that your skin likes.

The cosmetics of one of the oldest and most famous brands L'Oreal Professionnel are characterized by their innovation. In its composition you can see a lot of new ingredients that have proven themselves in skin care. Buy L'Oreal Professionnel in online stores is quite easy. The price of L'Oreal cosmetics is not high, compared to its quality. It should be taken into account that this is not just a mass-market cosmetics, it is a professional cosmetics.

Chapter 1: From the History of Cosmetic Ingredients

The oldest organization that keeps track of ingredients in cosmetics is the Personal Care Products Council, formerly The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA). It was founded in 1894 and it, the old lady, has long passed a hundred years. It is to this organization belongs the authorship of the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The first "dictionary" of ingredients was published in 1973. It included only 5 thousand ingredients. Each was assigned its own Chemical Abstract Service Registry (CAS) Numbers.

In 1994, the fifth edition of the dictionary was published, which was called International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and contained 6000 ingredients. In 2006, the 11th edition was released, but already under the name International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), which has more than 13 thousand ingredients. As you can see, the number of ingredients has more than doubled in 12 years!

It was not until 1973, under pressure from the U.S. FDA, that the list of ingredients on cosmetics labels began to be printed. According to experts, this is what started the explosion of cosmetic ingredients and created competition between manufacturers. In order to conquer the market, they began to invent new and new ingredients.

As we can see, the disclosure of the composition of cosmetics was caused not by concern for customers, but solely by the mercantile interests of manufacturing companies. This is evidenced by the fact that only narrow specialists can read the chemical names of ingredients, and even then only those who are familiar with the INCI rules for the abbreviated spelling of ingredients. Apparently, this is why in Russia they prefer to write the composition of cosmetics in Russian, despite the requirements of the law. Russian "cosmetic chemists" cannot understand the complexity of Latin abbreviations adopted in INCI.

Chapter 2: How do you read labels?

No matter how much the cosmetics manufacturers encrypt themselves, the cosmetics user is becoming more inquisitive. Many people have started to pay attention to cosmetic compositionputting the advertising "ahhs" and "sighs" on the back burner.

Here are some rules of thumb for generating an ingredient list.

The list is topped by the substance with the highest percentage of content in cosmetics. Usually, the first one is water. Moreover, the Latin spelling of this ingredient depends on where the cosmetic was produced. If in the United States - it is written "water", if in Europe - "aqua". This is due to the fact that in the USA it is not the Latin spelling of some ingredients, but the English spelling.

The remaining ingredients are arranged in descending order of their percentage content. The list closes with the substance with the lowest percentage of content in the cosmetics.

In EU countries, in the list of ingredients, substances belonging to colorants must be placed at the end of the list of all cosmetics and must be accompanied by designations indicating their color index numbers (e.g. CI 17705, short for "color index") or hair dye numbers (HD (hair dye) numbers).

In the United States, the FD&C (food, drug, and cosmetic) designation is used for colorants. If a colorant is banned for use in food, but approved for use in drugs and cosmetics, it will receive a D&C (drug, drug, and cosmetic number).

In addition to colorant designations, there are other differences in the designations of ingredients in cosmetics in the US and EU countries. For example, in the USA, instead of the Latin names of plant extracts, common English names are always used - cocoa butter, etc. In the EU countries they prefer to use Latin botanical names of plants in order to avoid the problems associated with multiple variants of common local plant names, e.g. Theobroma cacao, etc. However, recent editions of the Nomenclature have adopted both spellings of plant ingredients: THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) SEED BUTTER. This makes the ingredients much easier to read.

It is also possible to find joint spellings such as Water (Aqua), Water/Aqua, or CI 14700 (FD&C Red #4).

The American spelling of "sulfur" instead of the English "sulphur" has been adopted as an INCI standard and has been extended to all derivatives of the word "sulfur", such as: "sulfuric acid", "sulfate", "sulfide", and "sulfite", instead of "sulphuric acid", "sulphate", "sulphide", and "sulphite".

The EU Commission supports the spelling of ingredients suggested by INCI. This list is constantly being updated. However, the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) should not be confused with the list of authorized ingredients.

Manufacturers have the right not to disclose the full composition of cosmetics in two cases: if a chemical substance is contained in a very small amount and if this is due to "trade secrecy". However, in order for the "secret" to be recognized and the manufacturer to be allowed not to publish an ingredient, it must prove that the "secret" ingredient is unique and gives the cosmetic some kind of uniqueness. In both cases, however, the manufacturer must add a note at the end of the list: "and other ingredients".

The rules on fragrances are not so strict. When fragrances are added to cosmetics, one word "Fragrance" is added to the list of ingredients in the United States and "Parfum" in Europe.
A fragrance is actually a cocktail of several dozen natural or artificial chemical fragrances. Perfume chemists usually work on the creation of fragrances. It is rare to find a perfume with less than 20 chemical fragrances. Most have over a hundred. And when this "fragrant chemical cocktail" is added to cosmetics, it is supplemented with more than a dozen additional ingredients labeled with one word - "Fragrance" or "Parfum".

Based on this, buyers should be extremely cautious. The presence on the package of such inscriptions as "fragrance-free" or "odorless" does not guarantee the complete absence of fragrances. To counteract the unpleasant odor of other ingredients, fragrances may be added in very small quantities, and are not specified in the composition of cosmetics.

Interestingly, according to U.S. regulations, ingredient composition must only appear on cosmetic products intended for retail sale. On professional cosmetics used in beauty salons, on samples or on cosmetics found in hotel bathrooms, it is not necessary to write the composition. It is only necessary to indicate the address of the manufacturer or distributor, the volume and to leave various warning notices.

Chapter 3: What do labels tell you?

Washington, DC is home to an organization called the International Nomenclature Committee (INC), whose members come from both American and European companies. The function of this organization is to assign simple systematic names to all existing and newly created ingredients in cosmetics. All developers of new ingredients in cosmetics must apply to the INC to obtain the name of the substance and enter it into the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).

Ingredient spelling rules are designed to make it easier to read the chemical names of cosmetic ingredients. The following are some of them.

- Ingredients derived from plants are called botanicals. Generally, these ingredients are not chemically modified and include plant extracts, juices, waters, distillates, powders, oils, unsaponifiable fractions, etc. In INCI, names for these ingredients are created based on the Linnaean International Botanical Nomenclature using the following scheme: the botanical name of the plant, with the common name sometimes given in parentheses, followed by the name of the part of the plant from which the raw material is derived (e.g. leaf, fruit, bark, etc.) and finally the method of processing the raw material (e.g. extract, oil, powder, etc.).
An example of writing ingredients from plant material:
VACCINIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (BLUEBERRY) FRUIT
VACCINIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (BLUEBERRY) FRUIT JUICE
VACCINIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (BLUEBERRY) SEED
VACCINIUM CORYMBOSUM (BLUEBERRY) FRUIT
GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT
GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT JUICE
However, it should be taken into account that not all plant extracts can act as officially registered ingredients in cosmetics. Often manufacturers take liberties by including "illegal" plant extracts in the composition. Be careful. Check the composition of cosmetics with the help of a special program http:///cosmetics/ .
- Ingredient names of plant extracts indicate the substance from which the extract is derived. If it is a plant extract, the botanical name of the plant is written, e.g., Apium graveolens (celery) extract is celery extract. However, as can be seen, the name does not include a reference to solvents and/or other diluents that may be present in the ingredient when it is obtained. Solvents and diluents found in raw materials used in industry (e.g., surfactants, polymers and resins) are also not listed in ingredient names.
This is an important note for users. When buying cosmetics that contain extracts from plants, it should be taken into account that each natural extract contains a chemical substance, solvent, which is not specified in the list of ingredients, according to the rules. As solvents can be used not only water, but also 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc., which are not so harmless.

- The terms quaternium and polyquaternium are used to describe complex quaternary ammonium salts that do not have a common name or whose name cannot be created by analogy with established names (e.g., Quaternium-82, Polyquaternium-20). Note that in Russian the spelling of these ingredients has several variants: "quartenium" "quaternium" "quaternium", "quaternium" and even "quart". The lack of uniformity in the spelling of ingredients in cosmetics in Russia creates problems for users in reading and deciphering the composition of cosmetics and makes it impossible to create a single program for checking ingredients written in Russian.

- Ingredients can be specially created ready-to-use mixtures of several components. No special nomenclature names are created for mixtures. In the list of compositions they should be written by listing the individual components they contain (for example, the composition of Caton CG should be deciphered: water, chloromethylisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate). It is not allowed to write simply Caton CG (Caton CG). However, many manufacturers ignore this rule, designating a mixture of several chemicals under one name. If such a mixture is present in the list of ingredients, it is better to ask the manufacturer and find out the full composition of this mixture.

- Biological materials are designated using specific terms (e.g. hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated fish oil) if the substances concerned have been isolated, purified and chemically characterized. Alternative nomenclature is used to name biological materials according to their degree of processing. Such names in INCI may be derived from: the Latin name of the genus, or mainly from the names given in the Pharmacopoeias, followed, where appropriate, by the part of the plant and the type of processing (e.g. extract, oil, powder, etc.).
For ingredients derived from mammals, names based, if appropriate, on the English name of the animal part used (e.g., connective tissue, spleen, stomach, etc.) are generally used, and the type of processing (e.g., extract, oil) is indicated, if appropriate.

- Denatured alcohols are given the name "alcohol denat." in INCI. (alcohol denat.). Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol denatured with one or more denaturing agents used in accordance with the legislation of each EU member state.

- Nomenclature names for ingredients composed of similar substances (e.g. fatty acids, fatty alcohols) are determined on the basis of the chemical identity of the raw material from which the substance is derived. For mixtures of substances derived from a natural source (e.g. coconut), the name is assigned using the root of the source product to reflect the natural origin of the ingredient (e.g. coconut alcohol). If the original natural blend has been significantly depleted or enriched, the resulting blend is named based on the predominant ingredient.

- The names of lanolin derivatives usually include the root "lan", e.g., lanet-60.

- Hair dyes are named according to their chemical structure. In cases where the chemical name is very complex, the combination dye/number is preceded by the letters "HC".

- Synthetic peptides of 2-10 amino acid residues are named using the appropriate prefix di-, tri-, tetra-, etc., followed by the term "peptide" and an arbitrary number, e.g., dipeptide-2. Synthetic peptides comprising 11-100 amino acid residues are given the name "oligopeptide" (oligopeptide-3) followed by an arbitrary number. Synthetic peptides of more than 100 amino acid residues are given the name "polypeptide" followed by an arbitrary number.

Chapter 4. Myths about safe cosmetics

There is no common international list of banned ingredients in cosmetics. The government of each country creates such lists itself. For example, in the USA only 11 ingredients are banned. In the EU countries there are about 400 banned chemicals, or groups of chemicals. However, it should be noted that this list is overly redundant and contains substances that are unlikely to be used in the cosmetics industry at all, such as: radioactive materials and deadly poisonous compounds such as thallium, cyanide and strychnine compounds. Curiously, the EU allows cosmetics to contain up to 35 weight percent of methylene chloride, the active ingredient in most varieties of paint remover, while the U.S. bans its use altogether. In Japan, for example, the poisonous substance O-PHENYLPHENOL, which is allowed in Europe and the US, is banned in certain types of cosmetics.

The governments of many countries strictly monitor the production of chemicals, which can also be cosmetic ingredients. In some countries, for example, it is forbidden to produce chemicals that would negatively affect the environment. Therefore, if you buy the same cosmetics of the same brand, made in the USA, and compare the list of its ingredients with the list of the product made under license in the UK, you will find that the composition of the cosmetics is almost completely different. Although both products have exactly the same name, packaging and even television advertising. The point is not even that some ingredients are subject to British restrictions or bans, but that some ingredients are cheaper in the UK than, for example, in the USA, depending on whether it is allowed or forbidden to produce this or that ingredient on the territory of these countries.
Lists of prohibited ingredients exist in many countries. Governments compile them for internal use. Such lists are needed to monitor both their own producers and exporters of products. The practice is good. But it is far from perfect. While testing of each specific ingredient in cosmetics is usually done, there is no research on the final product, which is a mixture of many ingredients.

As we can see, arguments about the usefulness and harmfulness of this or that ingredient cannot be subjective. Everything depends on the possession of information and the ability to use it. After all, cosmetic ingredients are chemical substances of both natural and synthetic origin.

Ingredients in cosmetics are not unique. The same chemicals can be found in household chemicals, products and medicines. Therefore, studies of the same substance in products will be different from studies of the same substance in cosmetics, i.e. when the substance does not enter the body with food, but is applied to the skin and then enters the body through it.
With regard to cosmetics, studies conducted by specific organizations dedicated to determining the effects of ingredients in cosmetics on the skin and body can be helpful. These include Cosmetic Ingredient Review, Personal Care Products Council, International Fragrance Association (IFRA), Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, The American Institute for Cancer Research, American Academy of Dermatology, American Contact Dermatitis Society, Food & Drug Administration (FDA). I might add that the main organization is the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). As of March 2009, it has only been able to test a little over 1,500 ingredients out of 13,000 registered ingredients.

It is not only arguments about toxic ingredients that are pointless. Discussions about the usefulness and harmfulness of cosmetics in general will also lead to nothing. Cosmetics - does not belong to the category of drugs. Therefore, it does not require lengthy laboratory testing and research. There are only a few regulations for manufacturers. One of them is that the final product should contain a very small percentage of nitrosamines, known carcinogens. These are not part of cosmetics, but are formed by a chemical reaction during cosmetics manufacturing. But can have a negative effect on the body up to the formation of cancerous tumors. Therefore, before selling such cosmetics must be "purified". The purification process is expensive. And manufacturers know how to count money. They often find it more profitable to add more expensive ingredients to the composition of cosmetics than to spend money on the purchase of equipment for "purification". However, some countries continue to use harmful preservatives without proper treatment of the final product. This usually happens in countries that lack even simple regulations on cosmetics production.

Chapter 5. Advertising tricks

The process of cosmetics production "unleashes" the hands of manufacturers in advertising their products. Perhaps, someone has already had to wonder why model girls advertising anti-aging products, anti-wrinkle face creams, always look young and charming. It's as if they want to show that you too can look young and charming if you use the advertised products. Of course, it is much easier for manufacturers to offer their products with the help of girl models who have no wrinkles at all. Because no matter how sweetly sung advertisements from the pages of newspapers or television screens, manufacturers except for girls no one else to offer as a benchmark. There is hardly a single face in the world with aging skin, over which the advertised cosmetics would do their spewing advertising miracles, turning it into fresh and young.

Do not fall for the tricks of advertising. It should be remembered that anti-wrinkle cosmetics, for example, give only a temporary effect, because it is achieved by filling the skin folds (along the wrinkle line) with cream. As a result, the skin becomes smoother, and light from such skin is reflected more evenly. After removing the cream, wrinkles usually appear sharper, deeper, and instead of the promised "rejuvenating" effect, the skin appears even more flabby and wrinkled.

To convince consumers, manufacturers often use scientific and pseudoscientific terms, as well as graphs and diagrams. In particular, visual representations of how proteins, vitamins and other chemical compounds penetrate the hair or skin and produce cosmetic or therapeutic effects are commonly used. The back of a shampoo bottle may have a graph showing the amazing results of laboratory tests, and the product description may use a variety of scientific and specialized terms. Percentages look a little ridiculous when the manufacturer swears that the number of wrinkles will be reduced by 27% and no more, no less. All this is to give buyers the impression that this cream or shampoo was developed by leading scientists in the field, and in a laboratory equipped with the latest technology.

That said, some advertising claims are not that they are wrong, but rather misleading to consumers.

Often the very name of the cosmetics elicits a frank chuckle: "Face and Body Wash. It would seem absurd to wash both face and body with the same product. However, such washes are a big hit with consumers. Or Every Day Shampoo. I would like to exclaim: what outstanding qualities of every day shampoo differ from just shampoo? However, for those who wash their hair every day, such a name means a lot: it is a hope for higher quality or for the use of new technologies by the manufacturing company, which would save the buyer from washing his head every day. However, if you compare the compositions of these two shampoos, you may come to the conclusion that this is just another marketing ploy.

Chapter 6. Consumer Protection

Regulatory organizations in the United States and Europe are trying to combat false advertising claims. They are forcing manufacturers to write warnings about the possible harm a particular cosmetic can cause.

Cosmetics containing glycolic acid (refers to alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)) should carry the following warning: Cosmetics contain AHA acid, which may increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight. Protect your skin from the sun by using this cosmetic. (FDA, USA)

В hair dyesproducts containing lead acetate (lead acetic acid) (lead acetate) must bear the following warning label: Caution! Contains lead acetate. For outdoor use only. Keep out of reach of children. Do not rub into the scalp. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. Do not use to color mustache, eyebrows or eyelashes, or any part of the body other than the scalp. Avoid contact with eyes. Follow the instructions for use. Wash hands well after finishing. (FDA, USA)
Tanning cosmetics must carry the following warning: Warning! This cosmetic is not a sunscreen product. Protect your skin when going out in the sun or tanning in a tanning salon. Do not expose yourself to the risk of photoaging. Avoid cancer or other serious problems even if you do not get a sunburn. (FDA, USA)

Wax hair removal products should carry a warning: Do not use products for people with diabetes or varicose veins. (FDA, USA)

In the United States, a ban on the use of the term "sunblock" has been introduced because the term (literally translated as "sun block") is misleading to users. According to the FDA, sunblocks do not "block" the harmful effects of the sun's rays on the skin and body, but merely protect against sunburn. Therefore, prolonged exposure to the sun, even if sunscreen is applied, is not recommended.

Finally, the so-called natural and organic cosmetics have also been taken up. Criteria have been developed to distinguish between natural and organic cosmetics: In the description and composition of natural cosmetics, there must be a clear distinction between natural and natural-identical substances. Substances of chemical or synthetic origin are not allowed in the composition of natural cosmetics. The category "natural cosmetics with organic components ("organic") includes natural cosmetics where the proportion of natural substances certified as "organic" is at least 70%. Cosmetics "organic" is the highest class of natural cosmetics where the proportion of natural substances certified as "organic" is at least 95%.

In March 2009, two bans on animal testing of cosmetic products came into force in the European Union. The first ban concerns animal testing of the safety of cosmetic ingredients. The second ban partially prohibits the sale of products that contain ingredients that have been tested on animals. The ban is expected to come into full effect in March 2013, when alternative methods of testing cosmetic products are to be tested and approved.

Chapter 7. Quality of cosmetics

As mentioned above, it is impossible to trace the quality of cosmetics based on the promises made in advertising. Each of us has encountered deceptions such as "reduces skin oiliness", although skin oiliness, on the contrary, increases, or "smoothes wrinkles", although it has no effect on wrinkles, etc. However, consumers continue to talk about the "quality" of cosmetics despite the overt deception.
Paradoxically, the quality of cosmetics is determined in chemical laboratories by ... the number of microorganisms. The fewer microorganisms there are inside the cosmetic, the better the quality of the cosmetic. In other words, the quality of cosmetics depends on the degree of its "contamination" with fungal spores, bacteria, viruses and other microorganisms that can easily and simply turn a fragrant delicate cream into a bad-smelling mess and spoil its appearance. Appearance is the main criterion of quality.

To determine the quality of cosmetics, special permissible microbial content standards have been developed depending on the types of cosmetics. According to these standards, cosmetics in the USA are roughly divided into two categories.

Category 1 includes cosmetics for children, eye makeup, and other decorative cosmetics that are applied to areas of the skin bordering the mucosa. These include mascara, lipstick, hygienic lipstick, and intimate hygiene products. "Cleanliness" of such cosmetics should be much higher than all other cosmetics, because through the mucosa germs can penetrate the body much faster. On this basis, no more than 1 microbe unit in a volume of more than 0.5 grams (milliliters) is allowed for category 1 products (US standards). The only way to achieve this is to include more preservatives in cosmetics.

All other cosmetics belong to category 2, whose purity standards are twice as high as those for cosmetics belonging to category 1.

For consumers, this means that when buying, for example, mascara for eyelashes, you should make sure that it contains a sufficient amount of preservatives. Cosmetics for children should also be chosen according to the same criterion.

This is dictated by the fact that cosmetics are chemical formulas that are emulsions of water and fat. Both water and fat, when interacting with ambient air and light, are susceptible to oxidation and deterioration and over time can become a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. Many people have probably noticed how water or lumps appear in creams, the product changes color or smell. All of this is the result of bacteria and fungi that get into cosmetics from the air or through hands.

- Therefore, you should not store jars of cosmetics in humid places, in bathrooms, for example.
- Do not keep jars or tubes open for a long time, do not get into the jar with your hands or fingers. Cosmetics should be stored in the refrigerator or in a dry place. If the bottle or jar is transparent, it is better to store it in a dark place.
- Cosmetics should not be taken out of the jar with your finger, but with a special spatula, which should be cleaned after each use.
- Puffs and powder disks should not be stored in the same place as the powder.
- Brushes and other applicators must be constantly disinfected. Special disinfectant solutions must be purchased for this purpose.

From the above, we can conclude that the division of cosmetics into "exclusive", "elite" and "mass-market" cosmetics does not make any sense. When choosing cosmetics, it is better to be guided by other criteria, which will be discussed further on.

Chapter 8: Cosmetics or medicine?

Agree that the words "care" and "treatment" have different meanings. Cosmetics are products for skin care, not for skin treatment. Medications are prescribed to treat the skin. Hence the question: can one and the same product be both a cosmetic and a medicine? Doesn't it look like trying to sit on two chairs at once or chasing two birds?

As we have written before, cosmetics, as a finished product, are not clinically tested. Unlike drugs, which are subjected to many years of rigorous testing before they are put on the market. If a drug is added to the composition of cosmetics, it is already in the category of drugs and is subject to completely different rules.

Therapeutic cosmetics (in some countries such cosmetics are known as cosmeceuticals) suggest that they can have a physiological effect on body tissues similar to that of strong drugs that cause changes at the cellular level, and as a result of this effect, real skin rejuvenation occurs. But substances with such a strong action and having the effect described above should be used under strict medical supervision. But there are no such rules for cosmetics.

In the United States, cosmetic products that have a therapeutic effect, such as shampoos to prevent dandruff, toothpastes to prevent tooth decay, sunscreens to prevent sunburn, or acne remedies, are classified as drugs. They are allowed to be sold freely as an over-the-counter medicine. You can only buy them in pharmacies.

Despite the apparent contradiction, the market for therapeutic cosmetics is expanding. Products of this type include skin exfoliators, wrinkle-reducing creams, emollients, hair growth stimulators, skin tightening products, tanning products, and herbal preparations.

However, no matter how old you are, before spending even a small amount of money on "therapeutic cosmetics", it is advisable to get more information not only about the condition of your skin, but also about the workings of your body as a whole. Remember, you are not just buying a skin care product, you are buying a medicine.
If a product with the name "therapeutic cosmetics" has the promised effect and changes the structure of your skin, making it more youthful, then it is indeed a medicine. If the promised effect does not occur, you are a victim of deception.

Chapter 9. What's new in the world of skin care

About the fact that cosmetics, is a lady who pretends to be something other than what she really is, many people are beginning to guess and try to "help" cosmetics "save" the face. What are the wands-saving cosmetics? You can not only read news reviews about them, but also buy new products.

Psychodermatology

One of the fundamentally new approaches in the treatment of skin diseases is engaged in a rather young branch of dermatology - psychodermatology. It studies the interaction and connection between the psychological state and the human body. It also actively studies the influence on the immune system and hormonal background, which, in turn, affect the human skin (psychoneuroimmunology). According to research by the American Academy of Family Physicians, stress and psychological tension can exacerbate skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis.

For 15 years, psychologist Linda Popadopoulos, has been studying psychodermatology. She conducted market research to determine if there were skin care products that would also have a positive effect on a person's psychological well-being. This research led her to Bruce Green, a skin and hair care expert, who helped her develop a new cosmetic line with psychological regulation effects.

Active substances that improve metabolic processes have been included in the composition of new cosmetic preparations. Thus, nootropin relieves tension, improves memory and stimulates the production of endorphins. The drug Idebenone has a metabolic effect, improves overall brain function by activating glucose synthesis, and generally protects neurons from damage.

Scientists pay much attention to aromatherapy, believing that exposure to essential oils has a positive effect on a person's psychological state. Aromas of bergamot, hibiscus, chamomile and citrus were chosen as the most effective soothing and refreshing odors. In addition to toning and calming agents, the cosmetic line includes bio-inulin, which increases the natural resistance of the skin and enhances regeneration processes.

Cosmetics with GMO ingredients

The debate over the safety of GMOs continues, but there is no doubt that genetic modification provides new opportunities and benefits for producers. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has found that genetically modified foods are as safe as food additives.

Today, approximately 70-75% of food produced in the United States contains GMOs.
As a specific example, Dr. Kathy Martin's (John Innes Center) experience in making tomatoes healthier by increasing their levels of anthocyanins, pigments that fight free radicals, is cited.

Tomatoes were chosen for their versatility, as they are eaten not only fresh, but also in the form of ketchup, pizza, etc. Tomatoes themselves already produce anthocyanins, but they are mostly found in the leaves and a very small percentage of them in the tomato flesh. Anthocyanins contribute to the production of purple pigment, which is why tomatoes, as a result of gene changes, changed their color to purple.

Tomatoes with artificially increased amounts of anthocyanins can be used in the treatment of cancer and heart disease because anthocyanins cause the human body to produce antioxidants and fight free radicals, which in turn helps rejuvenate the body and protect it from ultraviolet light.

GMOs are also used in the production of cosmetics. For example, canola oil, when modified, produces much more lauric acid (the main ingredient in soaps and detergents), while the price for the end consumer is reduced.

Anti-aging perfume

Perfumer Harvey Prince, in collaboration with scientists at Rutgers University, has created what he believes to be the first anti-aging perfume. The fragrance of Ageless Fantasy perfume is based on the principles of natural biochemical processes, which allows the wearer to emotionally perceive eight years younger.

According to the information, the perfume is able to give the face a fresh look. A pleasant combination of pineapple, mango and green apple aromas, according to the authors, will cause a feeling of comfort while communicating with the owner of the perfume. And the aromas of pink grapefruit, pomegranate, jasmine and musk will bring thoughts of youth and happiness to the interlocutor.

Diet cosmetics

Nextera, which belongs to Woodbridge Labs, specializes in the cosmetic brand Skin Appétit (Skin Appetite). The other name is Nutricosmetics or diet cosmetics. Dietitian Keri Glassman is involved in the development of the brand. According to her, the cosmetics will include some of the most well-known nutritional products that are commonly included in diet foods. These include blueberries, musk melon (cantaloupe), red grapes, yogurt, honey, figs, walnuts, dark chocolate, as well as macadamia oil, vitamins B5, C, E, aloe and tea tree oil.

The Skin Appétit brand includes five types of cosmetics: hygienic lipstick, cleanser, eye care, serums and moisturizers with sunscreen filters. The brand will include a special carrot line, which includes beta-carotene and retinol. The main advantage of the brand is the absence of ingredients derived from petrochemicals, such as mineral oil or paraffin.

Chocolate masks

The chocolate, which is sold in the U.S. at Whole Foods, can be successfully used as face masks because this type of chocolate, which contains extracts from fruits, has antioxidant effects.

A food company has conducted research on chocolate that contains Amazonian borojoa berries (the South American plant Borojoa patinoi). The chocolate is designed specifically for women. The results of the research revealed that it is aphrodisiac (a flavor attractive to men) and increases energy levels in the body.

Phytobase has now released a new chocolate called Amoriss, based on this research, which can not only be eaten but also applied to the skin by melting it first.

Amoriss chocolate contains fruits of the so-called "superfruits": Amazonian acai berry, mangosteen (a medicinal plant used in certain types of cancer, including breast cancer), goji berries (Lycium barbarum), pomegranate, Rhodiola rosea L., as well as the substance resveratrol, obtained from red grape wine.

Cosmotextile

Cosmetotextile is fabrics with cosmetics "sewn" into them. The French company Lytess has produced 60 types of wearable underwear containing cosmetics: bras, sports pants, tights, etc. The cosmetics are "washed out" after 30-60 hand washings.

For example, if you wear special bike pants, according to research, after 18 days, your waist will decrease by 5.5 cm and your hips by 3.1 cm. The composition of the textile is caffeine and shea butter. Guaranteed for 20 washes.

Cosmetics and dietary supplements

Sustainable Youth Technologies has developed a new line aimed at preventing aging.

mmune Performance, the name of the line, will include Immune Performanc Elastifir Supplement with Alasta, Immune Performanc Elasticity Cream with Alasta and a special Immune Performance Revitalizing Serum with Alasta.

Key to this complex is Alasta, an ingredient that improves skin firmness and elasticity while boosting immunity. Alasta is an extract that is derived from the rind of aloe. It was developed at the University of Mississippi's National Center for Natural Products Research. The process of obtaining this substance is carried out using a special technology, without loss of biological value.

Two independent clinical trials have shown that Alasta is able to reduce inflammation within the body, as well as reduce stress situations from "free radicals". The company claims users can see results in as little as 3 months. Skin elasticity is improved by 61%. If used in conjunction with the serum, results can be seen in as little as 2 months. Elasticity increases by 72%.

Anti-wrinkle pills
Frutarom has developed a unique anti-wrinkle substance that can be taken internally and used in cosmetics. This substance is derived from seaweed peptides, which are very similar to human collagen and elastin.

Collagen and elastin are the two main components that keep the skin firm and elastic. The new substance Collactive, when taken orally, shows a synergistic effect with human collagen and elastin, stimulates skin tightening, reduces the number of wrinkles and at the same time retains moisture in the skin. This substance has a low molecular weight, is water soluble and is fully digested by the body. These qualities can be successfully utilized in the production of special beauty drinks, and the substance can also be sold in capsules, tablets or in special foods.

Dermscan Laboratories researched the ingredient Collactive for its ability to reduce wrinkles and moisturize the skin. The clinical trials involved 43 women between the ages of 40 and 55 who had noticeable "hound's feet". Collactive showed that it was able to reduce the number of deep wrinkles, smooth the skin, and increase its moisturization. Special equipment was used to measure these indicators. After 28 days of research, 19% women had a reduction in the number of deep wrinkles.

Nutrigenomics

When we rush into the maelstrom of self-improvement, we often forget that our body, our organism is absolutely unique and is not comparable to anyone else's. And the effect of various diets and workouts will also be different for each person.

A new science - gene nutrition or nutrigenomics - is designed to help with this task.
Eugene Kolker, head of the analytical laboratory at the Children's Health Research Institute in Seattle, and his colleague, Viurel Ozdemir, associate professor of biological research ethics at the University of Montreal's Department of Social and Preventive Medicine, have high hopes for the new field of dietetics. Scientists see the main goal of the research in the possibility to personalize diets, to make them individualized in order to spare thinners from side effects after diets and for the prevention of diseases. Knowing the mechanisms of interaction of a particular person's genes with diet, exercise and other external factors, it is possible to develop a completely individualized diet, which would not only be effective for weight loss, but would also prevent many side effects and even diseases. With this in mind, Sciona, a developer of diet and lifestyle recommendations, has announced a new program that they believe will be a breakthrough in the fitness industry.

Also, it will be interesting to know the answer to the question Not an easy choice - skin for cosmetics or cosmetics for skin? 

By analyzing genetic material, the MyCellf DNA program creates a gene profile and supplements it with individual recommendations. In this way, the program makes it possible to take into account many factors that influence our overall well-being: heredity and genetic characteristics.
So how does one go about creating such a profile, the presence of which would make life much easier for many people?
The genetic material is taken by a simple swab from the inside of the cheek at home. The subject is then asked to fill out a detailed questionnaire with questions about lifestyle and various external factors. Based on this information, the computer program creates an individual fitness plan that allows taking into account such nuances as metabolic peculiarities, muscle mass building, tolerance to certain foods, the impact of certain loads on the body, etc.